(Slightly) Off the Beaten Track
5 GRIT BOULDERING Venues to find respite from the crowds
Whether you’re looking to get away from the crowds on a busy bank holiday or you want to help reduce the impact of climbers on an already very popular crag then hopefully this list can give you some inspiration. Some are listed in popular guides, others online topos and some only on UKC or hard to unearth out-of-print guides. In this blog we’ll hopefully make these crags a little bit more accessible and, more just a reminder for you that they exist and actually have some mega blocs.
Now, in a North to South order:
Wimberry - UKC CRAG
Photo © Karl and Ali (cc-by-sa/2.0)
Starting at the ever imposing Wimberry, a crag reminiscent of a dark fortress somewhere in Middle-Earth actually provides some very pleasant bouldering, requiring less of a slog than the main crag but still a bit of a lengthy approach and across a semi scattered boulder field.
The main crag faces North as does the hillside below that the boulders are scattered across so it’s not a day for a strictly southerly wind but you’ll feel it if there’s a strong wind on most of the boulders in westerlies and easterlies. It’s best sampled on a northerly wind day where you are likely to find relatively good conditions even deep in summer.
Boulders of note are Elephant’s Bum, Diagonal Crack, Fish Arete and its sit start, the classic slab Winsome and if you’re feeling jumpy then there’s still the old dyno project on the Tank boulder.
Wharncliffe - UKC CRAG
Photo by John Fielding CC3.0 Wikipedia
Quite a bit further south is Wharncliffe, quick access from the M1, an old quarry facing west and home to some of the oldest climbs on grit, being Jimmy Puttrell’s local crag.
It doesn’t have the best of outlooks, overlooking large pylons and lots of broken rock but is home to some great climbs.
Having had a somewhat renaissance in bouldering recently with plenty of development from the likes of Jon Fullwood, Ned Feehally and many others, there’s now a substantial circuit to go at on great quality rock and you’ll often find the place to yourself.
Boulders of note being Outlook Roof, Sneaky Little Fingers, The Dragon’s Den and the hard one of the crag Kobe, along with much more development left if you’re feeling exploratory.
Read more on UKC in this great article from Jim Pope
Lawrencefield - UKC CRAG
Now in the heart of the Peak District we have Lawrencefield. Very much on the radar for trad, of which there is plenty of very high quality.
However, it gets little attention from boulderers. If you venture further right along the edge, it teeters away into the woods reducing in size and offering plenty of interesting boulders. You’ll find yourself in an almost fairytale setting surrounded by lush green moss and birch trees along with many beautiful amanita muscarias (fly agaric) mushrooms in the autumn season.
Not featured in any particular guides so it’ll be quite a bit of an explore but referencing against UKC and the few that have visual topo eg. Adam the Ant you’ll be able to find your way around.
Certainly don’t miss the impressive freestanding boulder prior to Pool Wall, looking like something brought from American sandstone geology featuring some great problems on its various faces.
Boulders of note are Simmer down and Pucker Up, All the King’s Men, Boonapi and Jab me Daddy. Along with if you’re feeling bold and very strong, the last great problem of the main wall in the roadside bay, said to be in the 8s on searing crimps and high but also plenty more development to be done along the broken edges in the woods.
Baslow - ukc crag
Photo by Alan Heardman CC3.0 Wikipedia
Further along the same geological scar we have Baslow, Curbar’s little sibling sitting in its shadow. Facing mainly west except for the Eagle Stone which faces all aspects. Plenty of highballs to be done along with some excellent bouldering.
Relatively good conditions can be found on the Eagle Stone if there is a good wind on a cloudy day. And the rest of the main crag faces west so can catch partial northerlies and southerlies and is pleasant on most days with wind.
An easy escape from the crowds of Curbar with plenty of good modern day classics to get on such as A Beagle Too Far, Beagles About and For a Few Beagles More on the Eagle Stone and on the main crag there are The Balls Test, Hot Ziggerty and Flatworld.
Rivelin - UKC crag
Photo by Mick Knapton at the English-language Wikipedia (as you can see this isn’t an image of Rivelin Quarries, we are missing one and if you have a good one and would like it featured then send it through via our IG or contact form!)
Now heading a bit closer to Sheffield we have the almost always sunny south facing Rivelin, of course quite popular already but if you just wander further left along the edge past Master Kush and Purple Haze you’ll find yourself in the Quarries area, a bit overgrown with rhododendrons but filled with plenty of clean cut gritstone lending itself to sharp aretes and edges. You’ll often find yourself alone at this end with plenty to get at for those willing to do a bit of highballing or settling for top and drop blocs. There are certainly gems to be found!
Staying relatively quiet all the way back to the Purple Haze boulder. Problems of note are Mini Beak, Glom Onto, Cool Running, Purple Haze and Master Kush.
These lesser-known venues offer a great alternative to the more crowded crags, providing a chance to explore new problems and enjoy some solitude. Happy bouldering!
